Foundry ACW

It's been quite some time since my last post, so it's good to have some freshly painted minis to report on. I've had a sizable bag of Foundry ACW figs I've been meaning to get to, so I decided on starting with a small project of Union in greatcoats. My hope is one day to host a large battle that will table many units, so I'm constantly adding to my 28mm ACW collection. These were very easy to paint. Next up, the 54th Massachusetts.

28mm Foundry AWI

Happy New Year! For several months I've had a hankering to paint up some American War of Independence figs, especially some redcoats. I've always thought the classic British red jacket is really cool looking regardless the period. Compared to some of the other periods I've painted, the uniforms worn by 18th century troops would be by far the most difficult project for me yet. Because of this, I decided my limit would be just enough for small skirmish-level games. While they were definitely a challenge to paint, they weren't as tough as I thought they'd be.  I  didn't get real historical when I chose facing colors. All the infantry are British light infantry.  The continentals I'm working on now are proving to be pretty easy compared to the British. These will be fun to bring out for one of the Baron's Fistful of Lead games.

I don't know how I'll use an artillery piece for a skirmish game, but it was fun to paint.

28mm Union Cavalry

I'd had a few boxes of unpainted ACW cavalry lying around that needed to be painted. I've been eyeing a Battle of Kernstown scenario in the Regimental Fire & Fury Scenario Book Vol. 1 http://www.fireandfury.com/products/desc_rffscenarios1.shtml, so these guys would come in handy to represent cav units from West Virginia, Ohio, and Michigan.

A handful are Perry plastics and Sash & Saber, but most are Foundry.

25mm Infantry Tutorial Pt. 5

Well, I've nearly completed this very large batch of infantry. I believe I mentioned in an earlier post that I will not attempt a batch this large again as I get too bored. However, when all said and done I will have knocked out about 35 bases of infantry (or 70 for RF&F if I halve them).

Reb coats and trousers get a hap-hazard mix of grays, blues, grey-blues, grey-browns, and even some grey-greens, tans, and butternuts. Most of these except officers and color bearers are washed. Blanket rolls are primarily varied shades of tan and gray, and blue with a few reds and patterns thrown in for good measure. Most are two-shaded. Haversacks are a mix of the tarred black and off-white to dark tan canvas. Canteens are a mix of blues, tans, grays, and browns. Some packs and leather are left black, some are shades of brown. Paints are varied but primarily Ceramcoat and Vallejo. Flags are GMBs (the best in my opinion - I can't wait to get my hands on a set for the 14th Brooklyn I have on the way).  Stay tuned for a final installment.

ACW Project Pt. 4

I have been able to get a fair amount of work done this weekend on this project (I usually ramp things up when I near the finish line).  Short of flock, my Union army is now ten bases stronger.  Most of these are the remainder of my Sash & Saber regimental pack (RUS1 right shoulder shift).  The rest are a mix of Redoubt, Dixon, and Foundry.  It's a bit tough to notice in the picks, but I like to mix a little pure white with GW's Mithril to hit the top of the bayonets to give an effect of sun glinting off off them. Next up will be finishing about 80 Rebs.

On a side note, I am pretty excited about the upcoming fall. In September I will be visiting Gettysburg for the first time since I was 5 or 6 years old. In November I will be visiting Antietam for the second time as well. We have reserved Randy Buchman for our tour guide at Antietam for the second time as well. If you ever have a chance to visit the park, Mr. Buchman is highly recommended.

ACW Project Pt. 3

It has been some time now since my last post and this project has been moving much slower than expected.  Summer activities and an impending move has and will continue to hamper my progress. Since last time I have been able to get all trousers and jackets/shirts painted. Union jackets got the same two shade their kepis received. Most Reb jackets got washed. All trousers got washed too.

At this point I have decided to shift gears and complete all Union troops (including basing) and move back and finish all Rebels.  I have completed socks/gaiters, canteens, blanket rolls and have began drybrushing muskets and cups with GW's Mithril Silver.  Musket stocks will be a mix of 2 or 3 different browns.

ACW Project Pt.2

After dry-brushing all the black and most of the brown leather equipment, I have moved on to hats and kepis. I am starting to use the dry-brushing method more and more the better I get at it. In addition, it saves a lot of time over the two and three shade methods. Next up trousers and jackets/coats.

ACW Project Update

Since my gaming is going to be very limited for the next few months due to Thursday night swim meets, I am going to be limited to posts on what should shape up to be a several-month ACW painting project (and maybe an occasional post on terrain).

I have quite an eclectic mix of minis that will end up ordinary, rank and file infantry - about 60 - 70  Rebs and about 40 Fed. With my 40x40 infantry bases holding 4 minis (some 3 including a lying casualty), this will add between 28 and 30 bases to my armies, or close to 6 regiments worth. The lion's share are Sash and Saber with an even mix of Dixon, Redoubt, and Foundry...and one Essex I found in a box thrown in for good measure. Once primed in black (cheap Wally World or Home Depot for me), I slap on a base coat of flesh.  Since I like a bit of variety, I use all kinds of base coats with Foundry Flesh 5A getting the most work.

After each gets its base coat, I use a single highlight color (again, a lot of variety). For personalities I will spend more time by using a three-shade method.

Once highlights are completed, I give every model a splash of Citadel Brown Sepia wash (I think they now call their washes shades) over the flesh. In my opinion, this blends the shades a bit for a nice look. Then it's on to hair where I do everything from blonde to gray to black.  Except for black where I simply give a light drybrush of white right over the black prime, I use a 00 brush to pick at (for lack of a better phrase) the hair so to leave some of the black prime for shade. At this point I give a select few eyes (all Dixons and some Foundrys).

After all flesh is completed, I start drybrushing packs, brogans, belts, ammo pouches, cap boxes, etc. that will remain black with a very very light dusting of Delta Ceramcoat Hippo Gray.  I like it for bringing out the highlights of the leather.  Here is the rear of a batch of Sash & Saber Union infantry.

Following this, I do the same thing with items that will remain some shade of brown (primarily Rebel leather goods), but I will brush it on a little harder so it's apparent the color of the item is brown, but with a nice weathered look.  I do this with many Reb hats too.

I am starting to take more and more advantage of drybrushing, as for me it leaves a nice look on some items (primarily leather and reb hats) and it goes a lot faster than 2-shading. I like my infantry to get finished fast without sacrificing too much quality.

Here are a few more pics of the batch.

Confederate Cav

I know, I promised some WW2 stuff when I last left you...sorry.  Last night I put the finishing touches on a unit (mounted and dismounted) of Rebel cavalry that has taken a lot longer than I had hoped to complete.  First, I have found horses to be an endless, boring task, but they look great when completed.  Second, I recently purchased Foundry's Master Class book on painting and have been experimenting with different painting methods.  When I first started painting, I employed a single color base coat for the most part and used washes and Army Painter Quickshade for shading.  I find this method to offer a descent result, but not nearly as attractive as Foundry's 2 and 3 color methods.  At this point I am across the board when it comes to painting methods.  These figures are primarily done in 2-color, but if you look carefully you may see some drybrushing and some washes.

As for the lines of figs I used, most of the mounted are Perry plastics with a few Foundry tossed in.  The dismounted are a mix of Foundry and Dixon.  I find the Foundry line to be outstanding, but a bit overpriced.  I got a pretty good deal on several packs on eBay last year that I couldn't pass up.  I found an outfit in Tennessee unloading Dixons at 50 cents a pop.  Needless to say, at that price I have bought over hundred over the past year or so. As for Perry plastics, my mom taught me if I have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all.

 I think this fig would make for a pretty good Nathan Bedford Forrest